I am no outdoorsman. My father hiked the Front Range with me
on his back and what he got in return is a son whose idea of “roughing it” is a
fully furnished condo in Aspen.
Yet given the opportunity to broaden my horizons, as a child
and apparent today in fleeting hobbies, I’d step from my comfort zone into
another persons’ pastime. This willingness to embrace adventure led me to a
hazy peak above Lake Dillon where my
preconceived notions about camping and hiking spun on a dime.
Entrusted to a friend’s older brothers we drove up the night
before. Our base camp extended from a maroon VW Fox wagon; heavily coated in
mud, the wire wheels were rust brown and flaking like sun burnt skin.
The largest of the tents was affixed to the hatchback making
the VW a one bedroom efficiency with a view of the gravel parking lot. Our
guardians took residence there. But the “gold coast” real estate was by the stream.
My walk slowed to a soft heal-toe. Scanning the ground I
found a nice patch of freshly fallen Aspen leaves atop ground cover where I pitched my tent—six hardly straight relatively
flimsy connector rods draped with a patchwork canvas over a hand-me-down sleeping
bag.
The creek ran calm, a soft rumble over rocks smoothed by
thousands of years of spring runoff added a soothing bass to the cradle of
beauty we’d found just 400 meters from civilization.
I didn’t sleep as much as I rested. Having never experienced
the outdoors like this I listened the night through. The scenery that greeted
me by day faded to black and blue. I found myself under the star scattered sky
wondering what took me so long to arrive, so long to embrace Mother Nature
fully. And miraculously when I escaped the concrete jungle of our community I
found myself at peace—an intriguing state of being. My normally rambunctious
personality ground to a halt and I exist as just another one of God’s
creations, just the same as the leaves rustling in the breeze all around me.
It was coldest just before dawn. Birds chirped in agony as
much as delight for the rising sun. The sky was backlit pale blue like a bulb
behind a wall of cotton candy. Eagles played in the rising air currents. Their
outstretched wings acting as kites while they surveyed the land for morning
prey.
Daybreak came in a ruckus like a crowd gathering in a subway
station. Rodents scurried through the brush while elk nibbled on shrubs and
wild mushrooms. Water bugs skimmed the surface enticing trout to jump and
splash. The whirring “zizzz” and rolling tick of rods and reels in the hands of
casting fly fishermen was the only manmade chatter.
I’d slept in my clothes so a dry box of corn flakes was a
fitting breakfast. The valley was surrounded by thirteeners—the peaks only
visible through hazy cloud cover.
We set out on foot at first light. Everyone within sight seemed
to be headed towards the same trailhead in an awkward single file. Rather than
join the masses we rolled up our pant legs, tied our shoelaces together, threw
our shoes over our shoulders and stepped into the moaning stream at the ford without
thinking how chilling the first step would be.
We waded through the icey water; pins and needles pelted my
legs making every step a painful affair, yet invigorating just the same. The
current was stronger than I expected. Senses that lay dormant back home were
wildly in tune. I shaped my feet to match the algae covered stones with a
sudden adroitness. Each step was a journey of its own until soggy bank squeezed
beneath my toes and wet grass blades wiped my feet clean and dry enough to put
my socks and shoes back on.
We were headed to Ptarmigan Peak Trail. By now we had
replaced delicate strides for a soccer walk pace as the terrain became less
predictable—loose gravel sliding beneath our feet on a sharp incline. We were headed
swiftly towards tree line. The caffeinated morning air was refreshing.
Our chaperones outmatched us in sheer strength, but we met
their power with agility and youth too young to know what going all out meant.
We jogged at a pretty good clip ducking tree limbs and trying not to get
tripped up in the underbrush. It was an obstacle course to rival all others.
The meadow sprang into sight. Blinded by light I raised my forearm
as a visor and saw a vast open space that would nicely accommodate three
hundred for Shakespeare in the Park. Only then did I hear myself gasping for
air or feel the burning in my lungs and chest. My zest for our trek showed as
perspiration above my brow. I took in the scenery like my first breath.
No one was around. We caught a glimpse of a mountain lion
and were happy there was space between us. Being at the top of the food chain
didn’t feel as secure as it did parading around the supermarket. We probably
looked delicious!
The climb started without promulgation. Gradual, I suppose,
but the burning in my calves, quads and hamstrings told a different story. We
went silent with isolation—thin air and the sneaking suspicion that with every
step we lost part of ourselves, fed it directly to the mountain in pain and
admiration.
Something unheralded kept us marching. Not pride or the
promise of victory. There was no purse. Hell, we left that morning without
water or food foolishly. But we kept on towards that peak, still enveloped in dissipating
clouds, with nothing more ahead than the potential gratification of goal
completion. We were just out for a walk, as far as we were concerned.
“Dry” can’t begin to describe my mouth after more than two
hours of climbing. It was so hot and arid at high elevation that sweat
evaporated as quickly as it surfaced. The thought of turning back was self
defeating. Descending the path at our backs would be dangerous—hopping zigzags
at high speed, landing with both feet, leaning into the mountain praying the
earth beneath us wouldn’t give way sending cantaloupe sized rocks hurling at
the heads of our friends below us. We were forced to continue.
The brook trickled at barely a crawl and merely two or three
inches deep at its widest point. One of our chaperones was a med student, but I
didn’t need him to tell me the water was pure, fresh as the driven snow. I
dropped to my knees in the barren vegetation and slurped the best water I had
ever tasted from my cupped hands.
All was right in the world.
The summit was visible from our watering hole—or so we
thought. We felt the elation of success twice only to be disappointed by false
peaks. My energy was fleeting. We had long since stopped marveling at the painting
unfolding before us in delicately detailed water color brush strokes. Trudging
along, our feet scuffing the surface, leaving a trail that would confuse an Everest
Sherpa, the air was so thin it tickled my nostrils before under nourishing my
lunges. I didn’t think I was going to make it. Then all at once the ground
ended.
The drop was sheer. Another step would have been fatal. We
froze. No one uttered a word, our eyes collectively focused on the expansive
horizon—it seemingly went on forever. Had I reached for the sky I’m sure I
would have felt Heaven. I know beauty. But Ptarmigan Peak redefined “vast.” The
world seemed so small before this moment, no bigger than the block I lived on.
We stood there a long while reveling in our victory. The
pain once resonating through every possible nerve ending had faded into a
mellow buzz of fervent exuberance—happiness, for having accomplished something
I never dreamed, like mastering my grandmothers’ pancake recipe.
I am better for having taken that first step, better for traversing
that mountain and allowing it to broaden my perspective, better for pushing
myself to physical and mental limits—challenging myself to reach the point I once
referred to as my wits’ end.
Umpteen people have climbed thirteeners. I am not special
for doing the same. But by conquering Ptarmigan Peak—even
when no goal was apparent—I opened my minds’ eye to the possibility that maybe,
just maybe I wasn’t limited to that which I can see or what I was told to
believe by society. Rather, I am free to dream as big as my imagination.
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